Call it what you may – the ubiquitous Kades` ( pronounced kah-days – an English interpretation of the word may be stalls or cafes` or small shops) of Sri Lanka are very much a part of the landscape no matter where you travel in the Island. Fruit, vegetables, clothing, fish, meats, groceries, soft drinks, crockery, cutlery, cooking utensils, lunch, dinner, a cup of tea, a cigarette, repair a bicycle, fix a car tyre, relish a hot meal at 3 am, or just a place to hang out,  – there is a kade` to compliment the ebb and flow of daily life in Sri Lanka. The images below tell the story….at least a part of the story.

Long before ‘chain supermarkets’ took hold,  the grocery kade` provided the daily needs – and still do. From toiletries to band aids to dried fish to dry goods, to tinned goods to kerosene oil to needles, sewing thread and much more. No spread sheets, data bases and Microsoft software for stock & inventory control – just good business people,  with a well thumbed ledger and a pencil (particularly in rural areas)

Fruit and vegetable kades`

      Fresh fruit and   vegetables, kades` of simple structures, eco friendly, open air and quite often all that is needed is the shade of a tree to set up shop. Note the king coconuts also available for a refreshing drink.

  Roadside Kades of all types provide  great variation to the observant , interested traveller. A journey need never be boring . There is hardly any stretch of road that will not have some kade` along the way

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Below: Fresh vegetables  at country prices.  Many country roads are lined with fresh produce kades`. Often the produce is organically grown. At times the stall is unattended and one has to ‘summon’ the owner to make a purchase. Old fashioned weighing scales and honesty go hand in hand at these kades`

Below:  the Malu Kade` – (fish stall)

Fresh fish is a daily food item for many, many, thousands of people. The fish stalls and the door to door fish vendors (still evident in certain areas) are very much a part of the daily life in the Island. Sea fishing and fresh water fishing has an ancient history in the country. The amazing variety of skills and traditions of the fishermen deserve a lot more appreciation from all of society.

Below:  Karola kade` – (salted dried fish stall)

Most rice and curry lunches prepared  the Sri Lankan way will more often than not have something fried to compliment the dishes on the table…or the variety in a “Bath packet “– (lunch packet.) Most of the time it is fried dried fish, salty, tasty, mixed with onion and a crispy dried chilli. Stimulating the appetite and encouraging overeating!

Below: Hill Country roadside Kade` – on the curve of a winding road and a waterfall for the traveller’s entertainment – A Kade` – to provide a hot cup of tea, or coffee, fresh fruit and some simple meals. such as locally baked bread and some spicy mix.

Below: In the heart of Bambalapitiya- Colombo; food Kades`  catering for all taste, vegetarians, fish eaters and meat eaters –  some serving Indian, Muslim and Sri Lankan dishes simultaneously, there is no shortage of choice. Some open 24 hrs and are popular places for a hot meal and a sweet hot coffee in the wee hours of the morning, specially  after a late night occasion. They also do a roaring trade in take way meals for people from all walks of life.

Below:  kades` for all religions. garlands, lotus offerings clay pots, coconuts, silver platters, woven baskets, fruit and flowers meet the pilgrimage needs of Buddhists, Hindus and Christians. The kades` are non- discriminatory in the wares they sell and there are many shrines where all three religions make offerings or attend in a sense of unified spirituality.

  Below: colourful Vesak Kades` – a Buddhist Festival in May each year.

Below: Broom kade`- metal wares Kade`

  Below: A glimpse of “old Sri Lanka”…the local Kade` – more than just a place to buy the daily needs or transact business – a place to have a chat and catch up on the local news & gossip.

Below left; A good breakfast Kade` just south of Hambantota – South Coast. A buffet breakfast spread that will satisfy the heartiest appetite.

Below right: Cyril’s Kade, the local corner shop for over 35 years to an entire community in a Colombo South suburb- a local landmark. A great example of hard work and personal financial discipline has seen this person  improve his life and provide well for his family. It started off a  mere wooden and thatch shack and evolved into a brick structure with a long list of stock items.  A respected man in the local community. 

Below: A familiar sight. A family sets up a roadside kade` outside their home to sell fresh fruit or vegetables, potted plants or whatever products they may create or cultivate to passers by.

Below: Market Day- Pola Day in Chilaw North of Colombo - kades` of all sorts line the streets – something for everybody. 

Galle:  fruit Kades`

On reflection, the January –February 2010 Tour is best separated into two parts. Part One being a tip to Kalpitiya to “frolic” with the Spinner Dolphins and a quick visit to the Anavilundawa Wetlands Sanctuary just North Of Chilaw . Part Two; being a road trip starting at Ratnapura and on to Kuda Oya – Uda Walawe National Park – Yala National Park – Balaharuwa Wewa – Dhebara ara Wewa and Lunugamvehera Dam. Not to mention a great overnight stay at  Bolgoda Lake and a few visits to Thalangama Lake & Wetlands Sanctuary in Bataramulla in between these trips.

                                                 KALPITIYA. (part one) Chasing Dolphins in the swell of the January seas is not an easy task. Keeping a balance, trying to focus and manage two cameras with two different lens is quite an ordeal. That effort “visited” my aging muscles the next morning! Nevertheless, the Dolphins did not disappoint.They arrived in their hundreds; frolicked under our boat, beside our  boat, and all around – as swift as the wind, gliding in and out of the sparkling water, dazzling in their brilliance, spinning and tumbling, ‘daring’ me to capture their performances.. A sight that never fails to enthral and each experience instils a lasting memory. The best time to marvel at these Dolphins is March – when, I am told, the seas are “flat” and very calm. The hospitality of Raehan (an amazing young photographer with a keen eye) and his Mum ensured we stayed at their cosy little cottage at Mampuri – on the Kalpitiya Peninsula. The versatile caretaker provided a most delicious meal of hot rice ( cooked with rampe’-pandang leaves ), fresh lagoon prawn curry and parippu – red lentils; cooked at his home over a log fire. The meal was twice as enjoyable as Eric and I dined in  on the verandah in a steady cool breeze. A brilliant full moon lit up the night and the gardens to the extent that there was no need to switch on the lights or the ceiling fan. A cold beer washed down the ‘home cooked meal’ just nicely. There was no need for conversation either as we absorbed the great evening in a marvellous place in silent appreciation.

Above: Anavilundawa Wetlands Sanctuary. Painted Storks, Black-headed Ibis, Grey Herons and Spoonbills

Anawilundawa Wetlands was a little quiet due to the time of the day that we went through (around 1.pm.). However, the water levels were good and for the first time I saw Spoonbills and Painted Stork in one of the three Villus. The place was as green and lush as ever. Pity we did not spend a few more hours walking the banks of the three villus.

Kuda Oya to Uda Walawe to Yala (part two)

An overnight stop with our dear friend Palitha on his tea estate, St Joachim, in Ratnapura kicked off our little road trip. This particular tea estate is brimming with Peacocks and it is quite a sight to see them wandering the front lawns early morning. The ‘friendship circle’ consisted of Ananda, Sepala, Harin, Chanaka, Raminal and Mahes. A lavish breakfast of string hoppers, red milk-rice, bananas and an assortment of curries saw a very satisfied group tumble into the vehicles for the trip to Kuda Oya (or- ‘KO” as we call it). KO  was green and lush too. At this time of the year the green paddy fields stretch to the horizon. Brightly coloured Minivets, Malabar Pied Hornbills, Serpent Eagles, Pompadour Pigeon, Sunbirds, White-browed fantails, Stork bill Kingfishers and their small ‘cousin’ the Common Kingfisher (just to name a few types of birds noted) graced our ‘lodge’ garden and the river banks below. KO never fails to “deliver” when it comes to bird watching/spotting. Short trips to Balaharuwa Wewa and Dhebara ara Wewa also expanded the sightings to include Malabar Pied Hornbills,  Grey Heron, Terns, Pelicans & Open-bill storks. The water levels in both wewas were high and it seemed good fishing was also being enjoyed by the local people. The usual, daily river baths prior to a hot lunch cooked in clay pots over an open fire always makes a stay at the ‘KO Lodge” a most relaxing time.

Uda Walawe was picturesque as ever. Above: Sheer stupidity! of some pilgrims who stop to feed the wild elephants that have learned to hang around the electric fence that borders the National Park(NP). A headache for the authorities and a tragedy in waiting. We noted eight elephants along the border fence. Looks like the  ‘word’ is spreading amongst the elephants.  Apart from the elephants we noted, Black Shouldered Kites, Hornbills, Woolly-necked Storks, Pipits, Pompadour Pigeon, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, and Grey Heron.  Uda Walawe boasts a new park entrance office about 600-700 metres inside from the old gate entrance. A superb breakfast at “Namal’s’ Cool Spot” across the road from the old entrance of hot string hoppers, Rohuwa  fish curry ( a fresh water lake fish), coconut sambol and a potato vegetable curry – washed down with steaming cups of ginger tea drew sighs of contentment from us all. Another great meal ‘on the road”. It was also good to note quite a few tourists visiting the park.

Below: Yala NP; full of water and green once again

Compared to last September’s drought (see my blog post September 2009 below)  Yala NP was in “full bloom”. All the waterholes, villus and pokunas were filled with water and bore water lilies and lotus. A reasonable leopard sighting in the late afternoon provided some great silhouette shots as it waited for the mother to bring in or call up the evening meal. The thrill of the day was a magnificent ‘alpha male’ leopard sighted on the way out of the park, at dusk. A huge specimen, strolled majestically, a mere 2-3 metres alongside our vehicle, took his time to cross the road behind us, stood a while and surveyed us ogling at him and then strode into the bush. It was light enough to enjoy the sighting but too dark for any clear pictures. A great sighting. We also had some good sightings of Brahminy Kites, Bee eaters, Coucals, Jungle Fowl, Wild Pig and Crocodile. Here too  tourists were visiting the park in significant numbers.

As all good things must come to an end “the lads’ and I enjoyed some great meals, river baths and had much laughter. About 700 images were recorded by myself and a few hundred amongst the others.

Above: Fisherman laying his nets at dusk – Dhebara ara Wewa

Travelling the coast and inland Sri Lanka will never be the same as I discover the wonderful history associated with the traditional water craft of Sri Lanka, I also note with great interest the changes to the current day water craft.

What has escaped my attention over the years, what I took for granted as I visited coastal areas and inland villages, was the prominence watercraft played in the daily lives of many Sri Lankans, from deep sea fishing, to inland fishing, to the other multiple uses, watercraft play an important role in the daily lives of Sri Lankans on a variety of lakes, lagoons and estuaries. A seafaring history that goes back many, many hundreds of years. Full of colour, tradition and history; a story of tough men, hard working, ‘sons of the sea’, brave as they come, innovative, skilled in sailing, skilled in ‘reading’ the seas and tides these tough folk have traversed the seas of Sri Lanka and fished the inland waters for generations.

  Above, Weligama Bay- in the fore front are wooden plank built deep sea fishing craft, with an internal ‘engine house’. They started to emerge in the 1950’s. The fleet above operate in groups in what is called ‘light course fishing’ carried out at night. The chair or wooden plank seat, at the top of the rigging is for a ‘look out’ to spot the battery powered light that is rigged up out at sea by one  of the group to attract the fish. Once this ‘beacon’ is spotted the other boats converge on the area to try their luck.  I assume that in the old days a flame torch of kerosene soaked rags was used to attract the fish

Left above: Hambantota  Beach in 1985 ,illustrates the emergence of the out board motor (OBM) on the wooden sea oruwas . Not only is the OBM indicative of change but the paint, on what were all traditionally, wooden craft, also heralds the winds of change.  It appears that the transformation to fibreglass was much hastened after the 2004 Tsunami that devastated the fishing fleets around most of the Island. Right above: A Theppam; a traditional, all wooden log raft, still in use in the Puttlam Lagoon, on the Kalpitiya Peninsula. The wooden structure set up on the other vessel is most likely to protect the users from the harsh sun during the day in that part of the country. Of interest is the coir rope net piled on the theppam…these days nylon nets are very much the norm in the fishing communities.

Left: Ganga Oruwas or Kalapu Oruwas used on inland waters and various waterways.  These oruwas were recorded by a large wewa on the road to Tanamalwila from Yala. The folk may use it to fish, harvest water plants or use it as an utility vessel to get across the wewa . Whilst the hull is of fibreglass the outrigger is of wood.

Below:The vessel below is being used to harvest  Lotus flowers on Bolgoda Lake it is an all fibreglass version of the ganga oruwa, including the outrigger. Perhaps we are witnessing the emergence of the “modern” ganga oruwa. In older times a platform of planks over two such wooden hulls would have been called an Angula, it seems there is a combination of both types still in use on the Bolgoda lake as the picture  below left shows an angula behind the ganga oruwa.                                                                                        

Below:  Mechanised fishing vessels at Negombo and Chilaw. What might be termed commercial vessels. The raised engine room and  structure for the ‘skipper’ is evident.

 Below Left: Weligama Bay. The oruwas in the forefront are called waraa oruwa– used in the shallow seas – they do not go out to sea like the bigger sea oruwas Below Right: A ferryman on the Kelaniya river, Kithulgala, uses a long fibreglass hulled oruwa with a bamboo for an outrigger. A very narrow hulled craft. One has to stand in the boat when being ferried across.

 Above:Galle beach adjacent to the Old Dutch Fort; The new breed of sea oruwa…long bows ( front end), fibreglass, no sails, the outrigger also made of fibre glass, the rear end of craft ( stern) designed to take an out board motor….and yet – with wooden structure to hold the seat for Light Course Fishing- in deep sea waters.

Travel along the coast will always have a new dimension of interest….I cannot wait to visit the far North Western coastal areas and the North Eastern Coastal areas – and inland water ways. I am certain the conflict that plagued those areas for the last 30 years , in a way, has preserved some of the traditional craft used by the rural people. Plans are afoot for a visit early next year. Stay tuned!

Last but not least:  I have been on a steep learning curve and my enthusiasm ‘fired’ by the patience and vast knowledge of Mr. Somasiri Devendra. Many thanks to him as I grasp the variations to the watercraft of Sri Lanka.

recommended reading for the interested:

Pre-modern Sri Lankan watercraft: the twin-hulled logboats  by Somasiri Devendra

Records of Traditional watercraft from South and West Sri Lanka by Gerhard Kapitan ,Somasiri Devendra and Gerald Grainge

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May 2009 was an opportunity to visit a remarkable place called Ritigala Kanda (Ritigala Mountain); The mountain is now a sanctuary and is a well known bird  and butterfly paradise.Steeped in ancient history and that dates back to the 10th and 11th centuries. Marvelous ruins and amazing in the realisation that a thriving monastic community built their abodes here such a long time ago            

Left: The great historic flagstone path that leads to the top of the Ritigala Mountain. It is best to take a guide on these tours. There are a number of caves in the area too of ancient history. The drive to Habarana was equally picturesque . We based ourselves in Habarana and took the opportunity to also visit the Minneriya National Park to see the famous herds of elephants that gather there each year. As two of the families were staying at an Eco Lodge at Galkadawela, we also enjoyed some great bird watching on the banks of the Galkadawela Tank. We were fortunate to spend a couple of hours watching 40 elephants feeding at Minneriya. Some great 4×4 driving was also done to get across the river to observe the elephants. Left a female elephant and calf strolling the Minneriya .plain. Below: A giant squirrel greets me in the driveway to the Habarana Hotel driveway.

 4×4 driving across a waterway in Minneriya National Park. The crossing certainly added to the thrills of the day. Going back across was even more eventful as many others had followed our lead to get closer to the elephant herds and the river bed was a little deeper than when we arrived.

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Elephant Reach: Kirinda, a great and convenient place to stay. Close to Yala and Bundala Nat: Parks

January 2009 presented another great opportunity to travel around Sri Lanka. My close pal Weli and I were joined by young Raehan: a budding photographer with a keen eye. Our travels took us to Passara, Bundala National Park, Kuda Oya, Tissa Lake and on to the Anawilundawa Wetland Sanctuary North of Chilaw and further North West to the Kalpitiya Peninsula and the Puttlam Lagoon some great photo ops were by all. By far the highlight of the January tour was the spectacular display of Spinner Dolphins at Alankuda, on the Kalpitiya Peninsula. Green Turtles and flying fish were also abundant.

As usual some great meals were also had in the local kades’ (road side cafes’). A fresh hot serving of String Hoppers and Kiri Bath complimented by a very tasty fresh water fish curry went down very well after the early morning drives into the Parks and forests. A wide spectrum of birdlife was also noted; namely, garden and forest birds, waders, water birds, storks, birds of prey, and Egrets. Below: the ‘Kade’” where we enjoyed  the meals. Right: Five kilos of fresh Seer Fish at Karukupane fish Market. Just off the boat.

We also enjoyed the sightings of smaller mammals and reptiles at the various locations.

Birds- see next page-click on ‘more’

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The trip to Sri Lanka in January 2008 took in Kitulgala, Horton Plains National Park, Yala National Park, Bundala Bird Sanctuary and Kuda Oya. Weli was ‘chief guide’ for the trip, Ali joined us from New Zealand and Eric linked up with us at Kuda Oya. Kitulgala was the first stop in an attempt to photograph the Palm Civet Cat. We learned on our arrival that the adult Civet had been killed by the resident dogs however,a juvenile still frequented our friend’s residence and garden. A bait of ripe bananas did not bring any success, but the bait was gone by 5 am the next morning. Bad luck. A ferry ride across the Kelaniya River for a hike into the thick forests the next morning was an experience. Many leeches latched on to us at various parts of the body. Ali learned that ‘leech protective socks’ meant nothing as the leeches climbed the socks and latched on to his stomach. Had the pleasure of seeing a Spur Fowl, lousy photo opportunity, but a good sighting. Egrets, Water monitor, Black-hooded Oriole, Taylor Birds, Red Vented Bul Buls and Sun birds were observed.

A large troop of Toque monkeys observed on the Ginigathena road to Horton Plains. Some good shots obtained. Ali realised a little later that he had dropped a 17-55mm Cannon lens. The standing joke for the rest of the day was that surprised pedestrians would be shocked to see the Toques looking at them through a camera lens…talk about role reversals!! Heavy persistent rain followed us all the way to Horton Plains. One main road being closed due to the rains.

A one hour walk in Horton Plains NP did not reveal much in terms of wildlife. Cameras had to be protected from the persistent rain. Great atmosphere with thick fog and rain. More in line with the English Moors than tropical Sri Lanka. Got some great shots of Sambhur; one with a magnificent set of antlers. Missed out on seeing any Purple Faced Leaf Eating monkeys, a pity as I was keen to photograph them. We stayed at Anderson Lodge within the Park. Due to the rain we cut short the stay and headed down to Tissa to take a trip into Yala NP. Good shots of Toques on the Beragala-Welawaya road, turning off at Haputale’. We had the best feed of hot hoppers ( a flour based, roasted, pancake type food very popular in Sri Lanka) and plain tea with jaggery ( cane syrup hardened,a substitute for sugar) at a roadside Kade’ (cafe’) on the same road. Super food and hot off the stove!

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Temple Of The Tooth; a centerpiece attraction in Kandy. At dusk across the Kandy Lake.

Egrets  in breeding plumage-Galigamuwa

Rajah; According to the locals the largest Asian Tusker alive. About 65 years old, unable to work anymore as his magnificent tusks drag the ground. He can be seen at Mollagoda on the road to Kandy. A truly magnificent pair of tusks.

A leisurely drive to Kandy on a warm Sunday afternoon was a pleasant trip. The usual traffic congestion evidenced on the Colombo-Kandy Road was at a minimal and my wife and I enjoyed the drive, stopping often to photograph things of interest to us. The obligatory stop at the Ambepussa Rest house for a superb cup of “Ceylon Tea” was a refreshing break. An abundance of Cattle Egrets and Indian Pond Herons, beautifully adorned in their breeding plumage dogged farmers who were preparing the paddy fields. The ploughing of the fields no doubt turning up plenty of tit bits for the birds. We stayed at the Thlianka Hotel for the third year in succession. My wife booked in for the Ayurvedic Massage and spa treatment (also for the third year in succession) and we enjoyed that part of the stay at the hotel. A nice hotel and well situated within walking distance to Kandy Town. Kandy was pleasantly cooler and surprisingly less congested than it was on our previous visits. The famous historic Temple of the Tooth and the Kandy Lake at dusk was a most pleasant sight as usual. The Lake seemed(to me) to have more varieties of ‘animal life’ than usual too. Cormorants, Egrets, Fox bats, Water Monitors, Ducks, Terrapins and Herons habited the Lake shores in reasonable numbers.

Kandy continues to have a charm about the place. One needs to rise above the obvious congestion and traffic chaos to grasp the charm of the place. A great many antique shops and a great variety of fruit stalls in the colorful Kandy markets and street bazaars provide for the traveler with an eye for the unusual. The gleaming white statue of Lord Buddha atop the hill at the Bahirawa Temple glowed in the late afternoon sun adding to the ambience of Kandy below)

A short trip to Peradeniya Botanical Gardens after many years was very pleasing indeed. Marvellous collections of botanical specimens for any enthusiasts are displayed with pride.

Peradeniya Botanical Gardens

The return to Colombo was equally interesting. We were able to purchase

some very fine Pineapples, Avocados and Mangos from the roadside stalls for very reasonable price

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